In
the seven years or so of our existence there are some outings that live long in
the memory as classic outings – the Rhinns of Kells, The Cobbler, Pic Del
Madres are some. Our last visit to the Merrick (15 July 2009) has entered
Ooters folklore for completely a completely different reason. This was the day
of the monsoon; a day that will live in infamy, a day that will be told down
the generations as the greatest rain storm since Noah’s flood, a day that we hoped
wouldn’t be repeated. We had high hopes
for this visit for the heat-wave that scorched Scotland over the week-end was
gone and the weather yesterday was considerably cooler but just as sunny. Today
might just continue the pattern.
Yes,
we hoped for a better day but as we drove down the hill road towards Glen Trool
the sun disappeared and the hills gained a cap of cloud. Would our hopes for a
great day be dashed? That remained to be seen.
When
we decanted from the cars at Bruce’s Stone in Glen Trool our hopes were lifted
again for the sun had returned and the morning was warming up nicely. Liberal
lashings of sunscreen and midgie repellent were applied for the sun was strong
and already we could feel the wee blighters biting. And we have had experience
of Glen Trool midgies before. As the lotions were being applied Jimmy said that
on Sunday morning when he was here, there was a pair of young peregrines just
taking to the wing off the crags above us. And just as he spoke the two young
birds appeared in the place Jimmy pointed to, swooping across the heather and
crags. We took this as an indication of a good day to come.
The
climb away from the glen up beside the Buchan Burn was hot, partly to do with
the slope and partly to do with the sun which was turning increasingly hot. But
our spirits were light for before us we could see Benyellary bathed in
sunshine. Surely Merrick must be the same. Yet, it was a pleasure and relief to
get into the cool shade of the conifer forest that lay between the lip of Glen
Trool and the Culsharg basin for the sun was hot on our backs. But this shade
didn’t last and too soon we emerged into the sun on the flat basin around the
old shepherd’s cottage of Culsharg.
For
many years the old cottage has remained as a shell with a roof but now work is
being done on it to make it into a comfortable bothy, new windows, new door and
new roof and chimney. But the inside is still untidy with branches and dirt and
bird droppings so despite the improvements we sat outside for coffee.
Now
came the steepest and possibly the hottest part of the day. Or would it be for
the first clouds drifted across the sun? By the time we had climbed through the
trees to the open hillside the cloud had thickened and the morning was turning
cooler. Was this because the slope was
easing off or was the temperature really dropping? We would find out.
Halfway
up the gentlest part of the slope we met a chap on a quad. We distracted him
from his task for we are blethers and nosy and just had to find out what he was
up to. He was planting willows by the wee burn that runs down beside the path. We
told him that we would return in twenty years to see if his work was
worthwhile. With that he looked at the sky and told us it would be raining
before long. We thanked him for his optimism and continued upward.
Now
we could see where the tree-planter was coming from for as we rose towards the
drystane dyke on Benyellary’s flank, we could see the rain sweep across the
moors on our left hand side. And it looked as though it might come our way. We
pressed on. The steep slope to the top of Benyellary was taken easier than any
of us remember it before and we gained the top exactly an hour after leaving Culsharg
bothy. But we weren’t alone in reaching the top, the cloud and the rain also
reached it. Though the cloud blanked out the landscape and hid the Merrick from
us, the rain came to nothing and we hoped that it would stay that way.
We
dropped off Benyellary to cross the Nieve of the Spit, the nearest thing we
have to a ridge in the Galloway hills. This is usually a good part of the walk
with views to both sides of the Nieve but today we might have been anywhere for
there was no view, not even of Merrick which we were rapidly approaching.
Leaving the drystane dyke to run up to the lip of the gairy, we took to the
Broads of the Merrick, that gently grassy slope that would take us all the way
to the summit.
It
might have helped our ascent of the grassy slope if we could see where we were
going but the fog had closed in and it looked as though it would stay. It did and
we walked into it towards the summit. As we approached the summit we met three
ladies of a certain age making the descent. They promised that when we got to
the top the sun would be out and the pub would be open. We gained the cairn on
the summit of the highest of our southern hills in the fog and there was no
pub! And now the fog was accompanied by a wind, a fresh wind and a wind that
chilled sweaty bodies. We didn’t spend too much time on the summit - there was
no point for the swirling fog looked as though it would remain for the duration
– just long enough to have a bite and then we set off downward.
The
intention was to return by Loch Enoch and down the Gairland Valley but we had
had enough of walking in the fog so the decision was made to return by
Benyellary again. Jimmy led us along the lip of the gairy. At the top of a
steep gulley called the Black Gitter we stopped for a look down. Far below us
we could see the wet rock sided Gitter merge into a grassy slope before it was
swallowed up in the fog. Nothing else could be seen. Little wonder, on a day
like this, that the Gitter gained the appellation Black. But one of our number
is not too sure about steep, rocky places and had us move on.
We
found the drystane dyke and followed this towards Benyellary. Now the rain came
seriously, well serious enough to cause us to waterproof. But this didn’t last
and we gained Benyellary top for the second time in the fog, but at least not
in the rain. A few spots came as we dropped down the steep slope beside the
drystane dyke but, like earlier it came to nothing. And as we dropped down, we
came out of the fog altogether.
Now
that we were on the down-slope the reckless among us decided that it would be easier
to jog down and took off into the distance. Most of us ignored the joggers yet
took the slope fairly quickly as well. But he who speeds up the hill has dodgy
knees and difficulty coming down so the poor soul was left trailing at the end.
But are we not compassionate? We waited for him at the deer fence and promised
to slow up. We did but it was still a brisk pace that brought us down through
the trees to Culsharg.
That’s
where we met the ladies of the sunshine and pub. They were a group from Crief
in Perthshire having a few days in Galloway. We blethered to them, they telling
of walks in Perthshire and us of walks in the south-west. We presented them
with our blog card, wished them well for the remainder of their stay and went
on our way.
A
relaxed walk brought us down the old Culsharg pony track, through the trees and
down the Buchan Burn to Bruce’s Stone having had a fair stretch of the legs on
Merrick. It was nothing else than a stretch of the legs for there were no views
and the stop on the top was too cold to hang about.
The
FRT (Fluid Replacement Therapy) for the day was taken slightly out of the way
at Willie Wastle’s in Crosshill.
7 comments:
The first comment was rubbish managed to repeat myself twice! As I was trying to say -
Shame about the weather but being a typical Cumnock boy I'll rub it in. Was on the Merrick not 2 weekends ago in fine weather as the photos show ;)
Merrick Photos
Hi Tookie (formerly of Lamont Crescent, Netherthird?)
Nice set of pictures of this wild area. It's a great pity that we didn't get the same kind of weather that you had. Still it could have been worse.
Personally speaking, I have been on Merrick in all sorts of conditions including the same as you had and considerably worse than we had. It's a long time, though , since I have been on the Dungeon and Craignaw - 30 years in fact.
Keep publishing the photos and we will keep looking.
Regards from the Early Ooters
Hi Jimmy, That was my Papa's house and where my Dad was born and grew up. I spent many a weekend as boy in the house at 5 Lamont Crescent. Happy days.
I take it that you know of clan Bunten?
Been on the Merrick as well in some really awful weather. All in all he's been kind, most of the time.
That was the first time I've been on Craignaw. Usually come in from the other side for Dungeon Hill over Mullwhachar so that's probably why.
It's a great place to walk. Nothing planned yet but I fancy going over Corserine and Carlin's Cairn the next time out.
Thanks and I look forward to reading about your next outing.
Hi Tookie,
I remember your grandparents well having been brought up more or less just over the street at no. 14. They were the first people in the street to have a TV and at five o'clock every weekday all the children in that part of the street would pile into Lil's livingroom to watch Children's Hour with such programmes as The Lone Ranger, The Cisco Kid, Hopalong Cassidy etc then gallop our horses back out to play in the street. As you say - happy days.
Hugh and Peter were ages with us but David was just too young to be in our gang. Whose son are you then?
Have many happy days on the hills.
Regards
Jimmy
Hi Jimmy,
I remember hearing those stories from my Papa and my Dad still tells them!
I'm David son's, funnily enough David too. To give me my 'Sunday' name.
Regards
Tookie
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