An unusual picture of Davie Mc. The only view we normally see is his backside disappearing into the distance. |
Down Church Street |
Though it was an early start for
some to catch the 8:58 bus at Sanquhar for the short journey to Wanlockhead,
the five who made the trip were well rewarded for their effort for today the
sun shone, the air was clear and the views extensive. We were to follow the
Southern Upland Way from Wanlockhead back to Sanquhar, not a long or
particularly arduous walk but one which is turning into a favourite.
A cold south-easterly breeze,
blowing off the top of Lowther Hill, greeted us as we left the bus in
Wanlockhead but it was a light breeze and it was on our backs so didn’t bother
us unduly as we started off down through the village. Down Church Street we
came, down past the abandoned church, down past the barking dog who met its
match in Holly, down past the old cemetery, down past the beam engine, down
past the slag heap, all the time enjoying the sun and the downward slope of the
tarmac. Then the tarmac gave out to an unsurfaced road but still the progress
was down the valley. The sun went behind one of the clouds being created by the
hill country of the Lowthers and the breeze was chill but this was only a
temporary blip in what was to be a great day. We crossed the Wanlock water by a
footbridge and our downward progress stopped.
A view down the Wanlock Valley from one of our many 'view stops' |
Now came the first climb of the day,
a climb up the valley side, a climb that was eased by being on an old track, but
a climb nevertheless. We would follow the track over the hill to the ruined farmstead
of Cogshead but that was still in the future. As we climbed the track, the sun
made a re-appearance and stayed with us for the rest of the day. The climb was
warming up and Davie Mc hadn’t quite recovered from his chest infection so
‘view stops’ were called frequently. The view down the Wanlock valley was
opening up for us as we climbed and the abandoned farm of Duntercleugh looked
almost Highland with its red corrugated iron shed beside it. And beyond the
valley Cairntable at Muirkirk was bathed in sunshine. Not so the Lowthers
though for when we looked back they brooded ominously dark under heavy clouds.
But these clouds wouldn’t reach us and we climbed on in the sunshine. Against
our tradition, a halt for coffee was called at the top of this climb and in a
spot sheltered from the south-easterly, we settled down for a casual coffee.
After coffee our progress lay
downward again, still following the remains of the old track, down to the ruins
of Cogshead. Again, against our tradition, no halt was made here. Instead we
tackled the second and last climb of the day, up the stey slope of Willowgrain
to the pass by Conrig Hill. Again this was taken in stages but the top of the
pass was reached more easily than expected and another halt was called here, this
time for lunch.
Our afternoon stop on the Sanquhar Moors |
Now our progress was all downhill
and easy. The views from so high on the side of the Nith Valley ware
extensive today; from Criffel in the south to Corsencon in the north, the whole
of Nithsdale was spread before us; away in the west Cairnsmore of Carsphairn
and the Rhinns of Kells showed that the spring had not yet quite sprung by still
holding on to patches of the winter snow. And it was this view as well as the
warming sun – we were well sheltered from the cold wind now – that cheered us
as we dropped down to Brandleys. Another halt was called and we settled down
for a break in the sun. The skylark sang high above us and it took some time to
spot it high in the blue. And a whaup burbled its evocative moorland song to
remind us that spring is indeed just round the corner. And it felt it as we
relaxed in the early afternoon sunshine.
Gus, the first timer on this walk,
was asked if he wanted to view the famous Black Loch. Why he declined was
beyond us. Maybe it was because we said we would wait for him coming back.
Anyway, nobody viewed the Black Loch today, we just kept on our downward
progress over the Sanquhar Moor.
We came into the town by the
Coogate, walked along the High Street and partook of an excellent and well
merited FRT in the Crown.
A great day out. And a hint of days
to come?
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