7 April Wanlockhead to Sanquhar

Alan, Davie C, Dougie, Gus, Hugh, Ian, Jimmy, Rex & Robert

Nine stalwart Ooters gathered in Sanquhar to wait for the 8:52 bus to Wanlockhead. Nine stalwart Ooters boarded the bus much to the delight of the driver for now he had passengers aboard – nine passengers. Fifteen minutes later nine stalwart Ooters decanted from the bus in Scotland’s highest village.

The morning was lightly overcast but there was the promise from the met office for a better day and we were not to be disappointed. So, in boyant mood and with a light but cool breeze on the back, we set off down the gently sloping valley of the Wanlock Water following the signs for the Southern Uplands Way. We were to stay on the Way until our destination in Sanquhar. Down then, past the brightly whitewashed houses of the village; down past the remains of the village’s lead mining past with queries being made as to the function of each; down past the old church which we noted was being given a fresh coat of paint; down past the old cemetery and into the open country we went, following an estate road.

Much to our surprise and slight consternation we heard the purr of an engine behind us and, on looking round, found this to be a quad bike of some dimension. Attached to the rear was what looked like a giant lawnmower. When the driver drew the machine to a halt we found out the reason for such apparatus. He was on his way to cut a fire break through the heather in preparation for those coming behind to fire muirburn and his giant lawnmower was just the job for this. This muirburn, he said, was to encourage new heather growth. We wished him luck and went our separate ways – we to continue following the Way and he to climb the side of the valley and start his heather cutting.

It was not long after we left the heather cutter that we also left the road to take the old pony track over the hill towards the ruined farm of Coghead. The gentle downslope of the valley gave way to a steeper though not too steep upslope. With the day warming up and the slope taking its toll, those who started off with jackets against the breeze were soon stripping them off down to more comfortable gear. The sun now made an appearance to add to the heat as we climbed the flank of Glengaber Hill. And as we climbed the views began to open out for us. Though an April haze obscured the more distant landscape we could still see, up the Wanlock Valley and beyond the village, the giant ‘Golf Ball’ on Lowther Hill.

As the road zigged and zagged its way upwards we were spread out over a hundred metres or so as the slope took its toll. But, in true Ooters style, the fit waited at the top of the coll for the less fit to catch up. (See us, see compassion………) Now the way was downward towards Coghead. Nearing the ruin we came across a new-born lamb, the umbilicus still hanging from it. Robert was lucky to get a picture before we quickly moved of to let mum back to baby. At the ruin we stopped for coffee.

Fully refreshed, we set off to tackle the only other climb of the day – a short but steep climb on to the flat of Conrig Hill. Each tackled the slope in his own manner and we gathered again at the fence near the summit. That was the climbing finished for the day and we started our descent towards Sanquhar. Normally there is a great view from this height above the Nith valley but the haze restricted it today. ‘Is that Corsencon?’ asked one pointing westward and was delighted to be assured it was. But all beyond the further edge of the valley disappeared into the April miasma.

In front of us, half way up the slope, we could see two figures coming towards us. They turned out to be a young man and woman who had left Portpatrick eight days ago and were following the Southern Upland Way to its finish at Cockburnspath. We wished them all the luck and continued our descent. As the slope eased, we found a wee, scooped out former quarry and settled down out of the breeze for a leisurely lunch in the warming spring sun.

Half an hour later we stirred ourselves to move again. Still the route was downward. The Black Loch had been mentioned to those who were doing this walk for the first time. A great image had been built up in their minds by the glowing descriptions offered by the others. So, when we came to a sign pointing to ‘Black Loch 420M’ The newbies were game for a visit. How disappointed they were when they saw it and what comments were made will remain unpublished in these pages for the sake of decency. 

After an unrewarding half mile detour the newbies were reunited with the main party. Again, what comments were made should remain unpublished. Sufficed to say that the old hands had a great laugh at the expense of the newbies.

A short flat and then a steep descent saw us casually wander into Sanquhar via The Coo Wynd. The monument to the Sanquhar declarations was examined in the passing and the cars were reached around one thirty – an early finish from an early start. But our day wasn’t finished. We took a pleasant hours FRT in The Crown where were greeted in the usual amiable fashion by mine host.