Tuesday 27 May 2008

21 May Loch Katrine Cycle

‘Stand! What seek ye in McGregor country?’ - Helen McGregor in Walter Scott’s ‘Rob Roy’.


The dry spell continues. But, contrary to the trend, today was overcast and there was a cool easterly breeze, not a strong breeze but there nevertheless. The option was for a bike run and Davie’s suggestion from last year that we go to McGregor country around Loch Katrine was put on schedule for today. We hoped the long journey north would be worth it. Were we disappointed?
Eleven o’clock saw us at the Loch Katrine steamer pier. The weather had improved slightly on the journey. A weak sun broke through but it was far from bright and Jimmy, the seasoned cyclist detected the direction of the breeze. His warning to the rest to take it easy for the wind would push us faster than was good for us was acknowledge by the group who then took off along the loch-shore road like schoolboys released early from class. The only thing missing was the whooping but perhaps they whooped into themselves. Jimmy and Davie were left to bring up the rear. Still, considerate souls that we are, the fast waited for the slow pair three quarters of a mile along the road. We were together now. At least until the first climb.
This first climb wasn’t too steep but it was enough to separate the men from the boys, and the boys from he who suffers on such things. Bob nearly had Jimmy off. Riding beside Davie, he never noticed Jimmy on his outside. Having said something humorous to his companion, he veered across the wheel of Jimmy causing him to brake sharply and wobble fiercely. James said something less than humorous to Robert whose ears are probably burning yet. Still no real harm done and we continued.
The road still ran through the trees and only offered the occasional glimpses of the loch and a world beyond. And, as it continued to undulate, the group would split up and come together again depending on the direction and degree of slope. Then we were out of the trees and the landscape opened up. Elevenses called, late for it was now nearly quarter to twelve, and we found a grassy slope overlooking the loch to Ben Venue beyond and sat for coffee. Ben Lomond showed, far clearer today than it was the day we climbed it at the end of April. And coffee was taken while also taking in the hillscape of the Trossachs.
It is pleasing to note that Davie’s coffee doesn’t affect his biking as it does his walking and after elevenses he continued to bring up the rear, sometimes with one companion sometimes with us all but never alone. We passed the Clan Gregor cemetery for this is McGregor country. Davie had hoped to stop here to visit but the hasty sped on regardless. We did stop at the board describing the building of the reservoir in the eighteen-fifties and Paul told us more about this and about the Royal Cottage. But some seemed in a hurry and we moved on. Then Paul picked up the pace. Alan and Robert went with him and left Davie and Jimmy to bring up the rear.
Glengyle House, built on the site of Rob Roy’s birthplace, was examined in the passing and it was good to note renovation work being carried out. Then we were round the west end of the loch and running towards Stronachlachar. Geese had been honking among the islands in the loch almost from the start and the fast three spotted a group close to the shore and stopped to look. ‘Canada geese’, said our fledgling birder confidently. All agreed but waited for confirmation from the naturalist. We are definitely turning into a group of twitchers. The obligatory Buzzard was spotted by Jimmy and Davie who were once again bringing up the rear. The fast three waited at Stronachlachar and lunch was taken here.
A cheeky wee robin joined us and fed on Robert and Davie’s peece even perching on Robert’s shoulder at one point. The shelfie wasn’t quite as tame and kept a respectful distance. But each entertained us in its own way. And this is how the peece was taken. We are definitely turning into a group of twitchers.
The sky clouded over as we sat and there was a threat of rain. But it came to nothing though the sun never appeared again. Paul was eager to visit the water intake from Loch Arklet and the Royal Cottage. A split decision saw three for the extra distance and two for the return journey. They said they would travel slowly and we believed them. Why do we continue to believe each other?
The three stalwarts set off and within the mile were dismounted examining the intake. The standard of Victorian engineering was highly thought of and the structure of the intake works was compared favourably with what we thought modern engineering would produce. But are we just auld fuddy-duddies? Then we retraced the steps, remounted and set off towards the Royal Cottage. This ‘cottage’ is a substantial building, more like a shooting lodge or country house hotel. It was built for Queen Victoria when she came to open the water works, another example of Victorian opulence. Though it is still in remarkably good condition, having been lived in until recently, it is now boarded up. The outflow from the loch towards Glasgow is here also and this had to be examined also. New, locked gates prevented a direct approach but the intrepid took a bypass route through the shrubbery. Jimmy was protecting a dodgy knee so didn’t accompany the other two. ‘Pity’, said Alan, ‘for it’s well worth a visit’. Jimmy took his word. Then we were back on the bikes for the return journey.
Meanwhile the advance two had made it as far as the Clan Gregor graveyard and stopped for a look. As Davie approached the gate, two geese took off from behind the wall with much honking and flapping of wings. Whether the geese or Davie got the bigger fright is open for discussion but Davie was asking for his brown trousers. A close inspection of the gravestones revealed some as early as the sixteen hundreds. Yet the most famous of all McGregors is not buried here. Rob Roy is buried in Balquidder. Ten minutes after the ’goosing’ the two were remounted and travelling ‘slowly’ (their word) back along the road.
Jimmy left the other two at Stronachlachar with the intention of catching the advanced pair. We were now in three groups. Davie and Robert to the front, Jimmy motoring on to close the gap and Alan and Paul trying to close the gap on Jimmy. A sparrowhawk flew across Jimmy’s path in pursuit of a pigeon. Jimmy flew on in pursuit of the first pair. He never caught them. Ten minutes after the pair arrived at the car park Jimmy arrived. Alan and Paul arrived five minutes after this having spotted the buzzard along the road. We ALL came back quicker than we went out.
Were we disappointed in the day? Not a bit of it. A thoroughly enjoyable experience, bums notwithstanding. Thirty miles for some, twenty six for others.
Refreshment was taken at the Lade Inn at Kilmahog near Callander. Some (not Jimmy) would like it recorded that Robert said something humorous (this is twice in one day) as Jimmy was in mid-swaly. The combination of swallow and laughing caused a dose of hiccups in Jimmy that persisted during refreshment and as far south as the Bothwell services on the way home. We hope he is fully recovered for next week.

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